Ek k swap subframe

valuable opinion What talented idea..

Ek k swap subframe

Here is the list of parts with prices used for our budget K-series engine swap. After the list is a description of the parts and possible alternatives. Our patient, a Honda Civic hatchback. It's on the operating table about to receive a transplant. The website car-part. If you use the website you can often find better deals than the ones listed below. Had we used the best prices found on car-part. You may get lucky in your area. A lot of the really good prices are listed at the east coast salvage yards.

Another possible money saver is buying a complete K-series swap. One of he biggest expenses for a K swap is the engine.

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It even came with a clutch and flywheel. That could add money to your swap. Your budget K-swap engine choices. That means engines, trans, ECU, wiring harness, and alternator. Alternatives: The Honda Element came with the exact same engine as the Accord. If you can find a Element and maybe talk the salvage yard into including the engine harness too. Again if you can get it with a harness, the increased price might make it worthwhile.

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And they do have 40 more horsepower. Another possible bank breaker for our budget K-series is the transmission. Here are some options that cost a fraction of a Type S six speed trans.

One of the big advantages of using an Accord transmission is using the Accord shifter and cables. It was a couple of hundred dollars savings over using the RSX stuff. Honestly I think the feel of this shifter it much better than the RSX unit.

You can buy them on car-part. It also requires a different mount kit from the EGK4 we used.September 27, 4 min read Tech Articles. Below is a brief description and links to the parts needed to perform a K-Swap.

Hasport EKK1 Mounts 96-00 Civic (EK Subframe)

The K-series Swap can be cheap if you do it right the first time! We completed one of the first EG swaps over 5 years ago. We deal with everything K-series daily and know how to save you money but still get you the best parts for the swap.

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We sell direct and are ready to help you get your K-Swap done. We offer competitive pricing on complete packages and are ready to work you up a complete package price. Why not get everything from one place!

The engine should come complete with the basics such as starter, alternator, engine and charge harness, shifter cables, shifter box, primary O2 sensor etc. K-series engine harness -This should come with your engine and is used to send and receive signals to and from the ECU and dashboard. K-series charging harness starter sub-wire - This should come with your engine and is used primarily for charging of the battery.

K-Swap Engine Mounts - Used to properly locate the engine of choice into the chassis of choice. K-Swap Axles - Used to transfer the power from the engine to the wheels.

K-Swap Clutch Line - A braided stainless steel and Teflon coated line used to connect the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. K-Swap Radiators - Hybrid Racing radiator All bolt-in aluminum radiators with custom inlet and outlet to simplify the K series conversion. This also incorporates the RSX coolant temperature and fan switch control sensor. K-Swap Radiator Hoses - Used to transfer coolant to the engine from the radiator and back again.

K-Swap Radiator Relocation Bracket - Used to transfer your stock radiator from the passenger side to the driver side. If using the stock radiator. Slim Fans - Required to maintain adequate space in the engine bay. Coolant Temp Sensor and Fan Switch - Temp sensor controls the coolant gauge on your chosen chassis and the Fan switch is used to turn on and off the fan.

Not needed if you have a Hybrid Racing radiator. K-Series Fuel Rail - Used to distribute fuel to the fuel injectors. Used to adapt the fuel system of the RSX to the fuel system of your chosen chassis. Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator - Used to create a constant pressure in the fuel rail to allow for adequate fuel flow.

Comes in various configurations. K-Swap Air Intake - Used to flow air into the engine. K-Swap Header - A custom design for the K series swap mounts. K series Test Pipe - Used to adapt the K swap header to your exhaust system. Below is a brief description and links to the parts needed to perform a K-series swap. The K-series swap can be cheap if you do it right the first time!

We sell direct and are ready to take your call.K-Tuned has created a series of swap packages that contain everything needed to get your K-swap project completed.

With 4 packages available, we have done the work for you, laying out all the parts you'll need to get your swap done right. From essentials, like mounts, axles, headers and conversion wiring to more detailed parts, like the fuel system, pulley kit and throttle cable kits. It's all available in one place, K-Tuned. The parts in our packages have been placed in a particular order, showing what we install first and last when we do a swap in our shop facility.

You can start with our "Swap Basics" package and add more parts later on as you need them.

ek k swap subframe

This is perfect for guys who are planning to spread their build out over time. Of course, you could also take the plunge and order our "Full Turn Key Swap" package. It contains everything you'll need for your swap from start to finish. The only thing you need to provide is the motor. We've done the rest. So, are you ready to swap Honda's greatest engine into your car? We will happily guide you through your entire swap if needed to make sure you are happy with the parts you have purchased from us.

A K-Tuned Representative will be contacting you to confirm and assist you with your swap package order. Please make sure to include a contact phone number in your customer information. Availability: In Stock. Choose Swap Chassis. Choose Engine. Choose Transmission. Choose swap mounts. Choose Urethane. Choose swap axles. Choose A Header. Choose a Swap Fuel System.

Choose Fuel Rail Color. Choose a Pulley Kit. Choose Shifter Option. Choose a Clutch Line. Select your Throttle body for Throttle Body Bracket.Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in. Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.

You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter Mallyauto86 Start date May 30, Mallyauto86 Member. Joined Mar 13, Messages Gav-EK9 Super Moderator. Joined Jan 31, Messages 10, The K Series Source. Joined Jun 21, Messages 2, Could be wrong though. For EKK2 mounts you do, which are really the only ones that make it useable, I've heard.

Joined Jul 6, Messages 3, Be sure to get all the bolts that come with the DC2 parts rack, subframe, forks, lca as not all the EK bolts are compatible.Innovative Mounts.

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Using this subframe allows the engine to sit closer to the firewall improving the axle angle, it moves the weight of the engine closer to the center of the car and increases the clearance between the radiator and intake manifold.

Hybrid Racing Engine Mounts by Innovative Mounts are a combination of over-engineering and a simplistic design. With a combined experience in the tool making and performance industry of over 50 years, we have the knowledge to produce superior products. Each bracket is manufactured from T6 billet aluminum and kept within specifications utilizing CNC milling machines capable of maintaining tolerances as tight as.

ek k swap subframe

Also, each product is hand assembled and inspected before being packaged and shipped. Like all Hybrid Racing products, Innovative Mounts are used on our personal cars and are regularly abused.

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We are positive you will be excited not only about your mounts but about the service you receive from us. With a devout devotion to customer service and support, we have built a customer base that expands the globe. What is different about these mounts compared to other kits? The real differences come in the form of comfort when driving and ease of install. Each mount features no-tear tapered polyurethane bushings.

This taper eliminates interference between the mount and chassis minimizing vibration throughout the car. The mounts also offer two settings for engine placement. If you notice the mounting brackets have dual holes, which allow the engine to be placed further backward or forwards depending on which axles are being used. Under normal conditions, with OE style axles, the engine will be positioned as close to the firewall as possible. In the event you are using a racing driveshaft, such as the Drive Shaft Shop level 5.

What does this mean? Our kit was designed to put both the passenger and driver side mount at the same height and directly across from each other allowing the motor to torque evenly resulting in even power distribution to each axle. So how do you choose what stiffness you need for your application? This is the most popular street bushing that combines durability with a level of comfort. These are near solid and offer minimal engine movement.

Year Select Year.Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in. Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.

You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Joined Jun 21, Messages 2, I really want to keep my EJ's subframe. Bottom Clearance? What Motor Mounts either way? Joined Jul 6, Messages 3, Which axles - depends on your usage and cost, when I did my swap I did not know about the combination of oem from different cars, Im guessing it would not be up to track abuse anyway, I run DSS 2.

Not many headers work with abs, not sure on the fitment on your car, again much is down to how much you want to spend, so many to choose from, DC Sports is low down, works ok, as in still makes decent power but has a 2" collector, and the chance of flexi failure is high, if you go custom make sure it is from a proven builder.

I run Hassport EKK2 mounts, the sump does sit low, but some clearance issues under the hood, there is a post in this section with the pictures. I have the DC2 subframe, not sure on the thickness issue, I would guess they are the same as EK9, if any parts are inferior I have not noticed any difference handling wise on track.

Even losing the small brace gearbox brace? Joined Jan 3, Messages The K Series Source. Only reason that I want to keep my Ek subframe is that I live in Cali. If the CHP pop my hood I would have to take it in for inspection. Which requires me to put my D16Y8 back in. Because California does not Bar'd legal Kswaps!! I don't want the hassel of swapping Subframes back n' forth. So anyone here have the EKK1 Kswap here?

Regrets not going EKK2? I mean I'm not into building a track car. Has anyone cracked you're Oilpan? Had to cut into the Hood for clearance?When it comes to a K-swapping a legacy chassis ie.

ek k swap subframe

It can get quite convoluted and frustrating. Except they had one seriously annoying flaw.

Hybrid Racing Billet K-Swap Mount Kit (96-00 Civic with EG/DC Subframe)

Upon acceleration, in the lower sub rpm range, they would shudder ie. So, I looked for alternatives which brought me to the OEM axle setup. Once I switched to OEM axles, car life was renewed — no more shuddering on acceleration and my civic felt normal. I started doing some reading the next morning as to why this would happen and I read all kinds of stuff. My first thought was to replace the axle which I did the next day and pulling out of my driveway the new axle snapped out again which made me realize the axle was too short, then I did some more research and I needed the lower control arms and inner tie rods from EG which I replaced and then installed a second axle and it got me to the stop sign on my block and it snapped out of the boot again….

At this point I was furious and frustrated at the same time, and didnt know what to do. Here is the problem I have with my options. The whole mystery here is why did I drive the car for two days after I got it out of the shop and now its snapping the axle right out by pulling it out of my driveway.

Hey guys, just wondering I have the shuddering problem as well. Does hasport axles eliminate that or have some kind of vibration damper? I'm sick of these napa remans…. I know of people who are K swapped that are running their stock B series axles temporarily without problems, some ive heard the axles have popped out and some say no issues. I have a K20Z1 swap with Hasport mounts, and currently using oem 32mm RSX base model axles which fits perfectly fine and drives good.

Or should I just stick to the 32mm 5 lug conversion?

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Anyhow, this is what I've concluded, let me know if I'm correct? The whole point of this topic, is to stay on a budget and not buy any extra parts that I don't need; like the axles, etc.

So I have a Acura Integra with a k20 swap, with 36mm 5lug hub from a crv. I started getting vibration issues whenever I'd hit gears hard. It sounded like a buzzing noise. I thought maybe the motor was just vibrating up on the hood. I searched up and down for the source of the noise and could not figure it out. Checked the mounts and the suspension and everything was tight. So I put the car back on the ground and took it out for a test drive. I was at a light with no one around at at night and decided to rev it up and launched at 4k.

The axle broke immediately. I swapped my OEM one for one at auto zone, and didn't even make it out of my driveway before that one broke. I had an old B series axle with the outer swapped for a 36mm and that broke on me before getting out of my garage.


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